Bringing Back the Dragon

There was a rime when Chinese restaurants were exotic, seductive, glamorous locales that spirited vou off into a fantasy world and elevated the simple act of dining to an opulent theatre. Oriental, mysterious, laden with cultural and mythical overtones, they were a break from everyday living that fed both body and soul. Then came a wave of modern minimalism, reducing every fantastical space to a stark tapestrv of sleek bamboo lattices and chrome fittings.., not unappealing but not a space to engage the senses cither. This was about food and only the food - but frankly, when you step out for a memorable night out on the town, you find yourself craving the theatre, the sensual aura, the romance. So, when I stepped into Mumbai s newlv opened Hakkasan, my first thoughts were "Thank (rod!". Decadent Chinoiserie, sinuous lanterns, a profusion of flowers, sawn slate walls and air laden with jasmine incense... this is a space that engages all the senses, bringing alive the entire romance of Oriental dining. Experts call it "emotional architecture", which is about the feel of a space rather than its aesthetics, function or form. And Hakkasans decor definitely touches the soul, transforming a meal into a smorgasmaboard for the senses. In keeping with the Hakkasan code, each restaurant has a unique feel while still retaining the key elements of the brands signature design.

Here in Mumbai, this translates into backlit blue glass, traditionally drawn panels, a caged dining area, a contemporary interpretation of Orientalism in design replete with traditional patterns in marble along with timeless motif embroidery and latticework on the furniture. The windows arc covered with dense Chinese woodwork to create a filter for natural daylight, while in the night candles flicker and lighting is patterned in such a way that there are plays of light and shadow that highlight specific areas and create a sense of privacy in others. There arc dark stained English oak tables, screens and latticing while die open plan kitchen makes the culinary activity part of the restaurants theatre. Looking for some privacy? The Private Dining Area scats 12 guests, while the Ling Ling Lounge can accommodate 44 people. The prime piece de resistance is, of course, the 16 - metre bar - a mystic melange of blue glass and stainless steel, which is perfect for a pre - or post - dinner stopover. Attention lies in the details and my favourite pick in this entire arena arc the cozy, double - scatcr bar stools: jSjo more awkward bending and contorting when you want to spend bar time with a loved one! The fact that the bar is centre of attention in I lakkasan comes as not surprise for this London import, which is the creation of Michclin - starred Alan Yau, a Hong Kong native whose restaurants arc known for exquisite food and a nightclubby vibe. Further, it is well complemented with an elegant mirror - paneled whiskey cabinet that comprises an exquisite selection including over a dozen rare old and exclusive single malts; an extensive wine list that comprises 125 labels spread across 900 bottles that have been specially chosen to complement the menu; and a bevy of cocktails, non - alcoholic drinks and teas.
The food, overseen by Executive Chef Kent Lee, a native of Singapore who has been creating culinary magic for 14 years and previously launched Hakkasan Miami, treats quality ingredients with the delicate respect they deserve. Boasting the first Michclin star ever awarded to a Chinese restaurant, Hakkasan can justly claim to be the best of its kind. The chefs have taken recipes from different parts of China, and in authentic Cantonese custom, reinterpreted them with a contemporary flair. The cooking methods are true to thousands of years of Chinese tradition, yet the flavours are quintessendally 21" century - modern, subtle and thrilling. There arc dishes that have been specifically created for the Indian market such as the Stir Fried Lotus Root, Asparagus and Yam Bean and Tofu and Aubergine Clay Pot in addition to Hakkasan classics such as Baked Chilean Sea Bass and Pi Pa Duck. Most exotic are the Advance Order Specials : Braised Emperors Seafood and Peking Duck with Ossctra Caviar. However, even if you have made a last minute dash, you wont be disappointed: From Roasted Silver Cod with Champagne and Chinese Honey to Vtbk - Fricd New Zealand Lamb Chop with Sesame Hoi Sin Sauce and Stir - Fry Lotus Root and Asparagus in Black Pepper, there is something for everyone. Trust me, if your experience is anything like mine, you will be going back for seconds within the week!